May 24, 2010
Installation and Lawn Care
Lawn Installation and Care. How to maintain a healthly lawn. Lawn care information from the experts at Auckland Landscape Supplies and Rolawn.
- Spray with roundup to kill any existing vegetation. This is especially important if difficult to control grass weeds like paspalum, kikuya or twitch are present.
- Roto-till or spade the ground to 10 to 15 cm in depth. The root zone needs to be tilled to allow the grass-roots to penetrate.
- Add soil as necessary to address the final levels to meet paths and edges. Use a good quality lawn-mix soil not garden composts.
- Consolidate the cultivated ground by trampling, raking and trampling again to settle the soil. Heeling the soil is the best way to ensure the final surface is firm to walk on leaving a foot print but no indentation.
- Rake and use a lawn-level-board to prepare the final smooth surface removing rocks, roots or large clods.
- Apply starter fertiliser to stimulate rapid root growth.
Laying the Turf
- Begin laying along the longest straight edge.
- Always lay in a straight line, don’t try to bend around corners.
- Stagger the turf in a brick-like pattern.
- Press the turf edges and ends firmly together without stretching.
- Avoid leaving small strips at outer edges as they will not retain moisture.
- Cut the ends off using a large knife.
- It is a good idea to stand on boards as you lay the lawn to avoid upsetting the prepared lawn-bed.
- Keep off the new laid lawn.
- Sow the seed and pre-plant fertiliser by walking backward across the lawn east-west then again north-south and either hand scatter or use a spreader. (it may be an idea to mix some dry sand, soil or pre-plant fertiliser with the seed to ensure complete coverage is met)
- Lightly rake the seed into the top 10-25mm of the soil. This helps keep the seed evenly moist during germination and stops those pesky birds making a meal of your hard work
- Keep the lawn area evenly moist during the germination period as if it dries out at any stage, your strike rate could be severely affected. Best practice is to water morning and afternoon, not during the heat of midday, as any new shoots could burn under water in the sun.
- Begin mowing in 14 to 21 days after laying the new lawn - in the days prior to mowing, reduce irrigation to ensure the ground is firm underfoot.
- Cut off 1/3 of the length and remove the clippings.
* Mow every 4 to 6 days in the first month and then weekly.
* The mowing height should start a little bit long and then reduce down to the desirable height of 25 mm for fine rye lawns or 35mm for tall fescue lawns.
*In summer the grass should be mown 5 to 10mm longer than when the temperature is cooler
*Begin feeding your lawn approximately 1 month after it was laid. At about 1 month the grass growth rate will slow and the lawn will lose colour indicating its time for the first feed.
- Only use quality pelletised fertiliser such as the Rolawn Lawn food.
- Apply 3 to 4 kg per 100 m2 of lawn.
- Re-apply fertiliser every 2 months.
* If the lawn is lush and has good colour the feed can be delayed however if the soil is poor and the lawn unthrifty then feed it sooner.